October 7, 2022

My Short Break in Barmouth

Nick Everything Else reviews, travel 4 Comments

I recently returned from a three-night break in Barmouth in Wales. The town is also known by its Welsh name of Abermaw.

Barmouth is a traditional Welsh seaside resort. I’ve visited a few times over the last few years but haven’t actually stayed there for over 25. I thought it was high time I rectified that!

On this occasion I stayed at Tyr Graig Castle, a hotel I discovered online and booked via Booking.com. I’ll say more about the accommodation below.

Barmouth is about ten miles south of Harlech. The nearest large town is Aberystwyth. Here is a map of the area from Google Maps.

Accommodation

As mentioned above, I stayed at a hotel called Tyr Graig Castle. Unfortunately I neglected to take any photos of the exterior, but you can see the view from my bedroom window in the cover image (including a length of parapet!). There are, of course, more photos on the hotel website.

Tyr Graig Castle is a characterful Victorian building, originally constructed in the late 1890s. it retains the style of the Victorian era, with stained glass windows, wood panelling and highly decorated floors and ceilings.

Tyr Graig is a traditional Welsh name and translates as ‘House on the Rock’. It stands about 200 feet above Barmouth, overlooking Cardigan Bay, across which can be seen the Llyn peninsula and Bardsey Island. The building was completed in 1892 as a family home for W.W. Greener, a famous Birmingham gunsmith. It was designed in the Gothic style that was popular at the time. Its unique shape was chosen by Mr Greener himself. It resembles both a medieval castle and an open double-barrelled shotgun when viewed from above.

I stayed in a first-floor turret room. This had round walls, and windows providing stunning views across the bay. There was a small bathroom with a shower rather than a bath. While generally I found the room perfectly comfortable, I did find the lighting rather dim. There was no ceiling light, just some uplighters on the walls and bedside lamps with low-powered energy-saving bulbs. My eyes are admittedly not the best these days, but I had to use the torch app on my phone in the evening to see well enough to read!

The breakfasts (and optional evening meals) at Tyr Graig Castle are served in the dining room and adjacent conservatory. The latter has wonderful views out to sea and there was a bit of a rush to get one of the four window tables (see photo below). Early risers had a definite advantage here! I was pleased to discover that they recently reinstated the breakfast buffet, where you can help yourself to cereal, fruit, yogurt and so forth. You could then order a cooked breakfast which was brought to your table. These were excellent and set me up for the day 🙂

You could also opt to eat in the restaurant in the evening. Like most guests (as far as I could judge) I chose to do this, as Tyr Graig Castle is a little way out of the town centre and other dining options in the area are limited unless you want to drive. The food was good and the portions were generous. My only slight criticism is that the menu was the same every night. There was a reasonable choice, but a bit more variety day to day (even if just a daily special) would have been appreciated.

The service from both the staff and the charming owners (Mike and Trudy) was uniformly excellent. The hotel had free wifi which worked perfectly during my stay (not always the case in my experience).

• One other observation is that this is the first time I had stayed in a hotel – as opposed to self-catering – since the days of the pandemic. I was pleased to discover that by and large things are back to normal now. One small difference is that I was asked at check-in if I wanted my room serviced every day. It was the first time I can remember being asked this, as pre-Covid it would have been assumed. But I guess some people are still nervous about having someone else in their room even if they aren’t there at the time. So I do understand why the hotel ask this now.

Financials

As Pounds and Sense is primarily a money blog, I should say a word about this.

I paid £336 for my three-night stay at Tyr Graig Castle, which works out to £112 per night (including VAT). Considering that included a substantial breakfast as well, I thought the price was very reasonable.

The optional evening meals were, of course, extra. The prices were, I would say, good value as well. I paid around £25 a night for my evening meals, which included a main course and dessert (or cheese and biscuits) and coffee. I generally had a small bottle of sparkling water with the meal, but if I had gone for wine or beer, that would obviously have pushed the price up a bit.

Things to Do

I won’t give you a full account of everything I did while I was there, but here are a few highlights.

Harlech

Harlech is about 20 minutes’ drive north from Barmouth (or a short train journey on the scenic Cambrian line). I spent my first morning here.

Harlech has some charming shops and cafes, and a long, sandy beach. But it is probably best known for its stunning castle (see photo above).

Harlech Castle was built by Edward I during his invasion of Wales between 1282 and 1289. Since then it has had a long and interesting history, including serving as the home and military HQ of Owen Glendower, the Welsh prince who led a long-running war of independence with England during the late Middle Ages. UNESCO considers Harlech Castle, with three others at Beaumaris, Conwy and Caernarfon, to be one of “the finest examples of late 13th century and early 14th century military architecture in Europe”, and it is classed as a World Heritage Site.

Admission to Harlech Castle costs £8.30 for adults or £7.70 for seniors (over 65). You can also buy a family ticket for two adults and up to three children for £27.40. Children under 5 receive free entry, as do people with disabilities and their companions. All prices are correct as at September 2022.

Harlech Castle is impressive and well worth a visit. You can climb the stone staircases in several of the towers and walk along the battlements (obviously you need to be reasonably fit to do this). From up here you can enjoy spectacular views across the sea and towards the mountains of Snowdonia. At ground level there is a room with some information about the castle and its history. I was glad to have this, as the ticket office had run out of guidebooks in English and only Welsh language ones were available.

I should maybe also mention that Harlech Castle has an excellent cafe with plenty of seating inside and out. I enjoyed a very nice cappuccino and cake here!

Portmeirion

Portmeirion is a beautiful Italianate village created by the architect Clough Williams Ellis. These days it is probably best known as the location for the 1960s cult TV series The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan. I drove here in the afternoon after spending the morning in Harlech. It’s a wonderful place to while away a few hours.

There is an admission fee to get into Portmeirion, At the time of writing (September 2022) this is as follows:

• Adult £17.00
• Concessions £13.50 (this applies to anyone aged 60+ or a student with a valid student ID)
• Children £10.00 (5-15 years)
• Children (under 5 years) Free

There are also discounted family tickets for various permutations of adults and children.

You can also get free admission (in the afternoon) by booking a minimum two-course lunch at Castell Deudraeth; this is part of the Portmeirion estate, a short walk from the village itself. Free admission to the village is also available if you book a spa treatment or afternoon cream tea there.

More information is available on the Portmeirion website. One thing you may need to know is that they don’t allow dogs (other than guide dogs) into the grounds.

Fairbourne Railway

The Fairbourne Railway is a miniature steam railway. It’s a bit of a drive to get there from Barmouth, as you have to cross the estuary, which entails driving several miles inland and back again. However, you can get a ferry (actually a motorboat) from Barmouth seafront that takes you to the far end of the Fairbourne Railway in under ten minutes. This costs the princely sum of £2.50 (September 2022 price) and provides some wonderful views of Barmouth and the railway bridge. Highly recommended!

If you are energetic you can also walk from Barmouth to Fairbourne via the railway bridge (which isn’t open to cars). On this visit I ended up walking to the Fairbourne Railway and then getting a ferry back.

A one-way trip on the Fairbourne Railway costs £7.60. Alternatively you can buy a Day Rover ticket for £11.50 which entitles you to go up and down the line as many times as you like. This is obviously better value! You can choose whether to travel in an open or closed carriage (it all costs the same). There is a small museum at the Fairbourne end of the line with information about the railway’s history and some exhibits. There is also a separate room housing a large model railway. This is free to enter, but you have to insert a coin to watch the train go round 🙂

The ticket office at Fairbourne incorporates a cafe selling drinks, sandwiches and snacks (no cooked meals though). At the Barmouth Ferry end of the line there is also a cafe but this is only open during the peak summer months.

Final Thoughts

I enjoyed my short break in Barmouth and am happy to recommend both the town and the hotel where I stayed for a short break.

As mentioned above, Barmouth is a traditional Welsh seaside resort, and none the worse for that. It has a clean, attractive promenade and a beautiful sandy beach which goes out a long way to the sea. It is hard to imagine it getting overcrowded!

There is plenty to do for families with children, including a funfair and amusement arcades. There are various restaurants and fast food outlets along the seafront. There is also a railway station with regular trains to Pwllheli in one direction and Aberystwyth and beyond in the other. Road connections are good as well.

Also worth checking out while you are there are Ty Crwn, a 19th century lockup for drunks and petty offenders (picture below). There is also a small museum near the seafront dedicated to the town’s maritime history. Entry to this is free, though donations are appreciated.

Finally, as mentioned above, I recommend taking a stroll across the half-mile-long railway bridge over the Afon Mawddach river. This is the longest timber viaduct in Wales and one of the oldest in regular use in Britain (it opened in 1867). It offers some stunning views across the estuary. You can also walk on to Fairbourne and the Fairbourne Railway (see above).

As always, if you have any comments or questions about this post, please do leave them below.